Holiday freak in Indian Borders

I must share with you an amazing place which i happened to visit during my stay in Rajasthan. The place is known as Kumbhalgarh and it is around 80 kms from the city of Udaipur. The fort which was built by Rana Kumbha in the 15th Century, A.D. is a massive fortress which is also Asia's longest fortified wall. The entire fortress is guarded by 36 kms of fortified wall and this is also where Maharan Pratap was born.

You can easily reach this place from Udaipur via bus or local taxis. The journey is comfortable and so are the roads. If you start from Udaipur, be sure to pack food along the way because once you reach Kumbhalgarh, the trek will definitely enthrall you but challenge you physically. A good 2.5 hours will take you to the foothills of the fort. The fort is also the only fort in the entire world which has never been conquered by an external agressor. The first glimpse of the fort once you are at the foothills will show a distant fort which is massive and majestic. Here lies the catch, Kumbhalgarh boasts of thirteen mountain peaks, guarded by seven great gates and seven ramparts, strengthened by rounded bastions and immense watchtowers, this mountain fortress has witnessed many battles, however, none of the armies have been able to conquer it. The fort is well entrenched in the mountainous region and many false gates later(which by the way offer an amazing trek) you will be amazed at a sudden turn and the whole fort lies in front of you. I cannot explain the grandeur and the megalithic structure which all of a sudden greets you out of nowhere!

The whole fort is huge and if yoy attempt to cover it in one day, it is impossible. Noteworthy is the Badal Mahal, the temple ruins and the wildlife sanctuary.

You will get all local help and information in this area as Rajasthan is extremely tourist savy.

Another great place which you must not miss is the Aodhi Hotel, which is a deluxe luxury hotel of the HRH group. The entire hotel is set majestically and its such a cute little place that you will definitely feel like staying for a night. Don't miss the bar and the gourmet.

I am attaching some useful links which will provide you with information and all that you need to know about Kumbhalgarh and the Aodhi!!!

Its a great treat and if Rajasthan is in your itinerary, make sure you are there. The first rains in Kumbhalgarh and the howling winds at Badal Mahal make it an unforgetable experience. It is also said that the boundary between Marwar and Mewar is visible from Kumbhalgarh, although I tried but my lenses were foggy and rains had made me cold.

Its beautiful and you will do good by visiting this awesum place.

http://www.rajasthantravelguide.com/city/kumbalgarh.html (Link on Kumbhalgarh)

http://www.indiaatitsbest.com/rajasthan/hotels-in-kumbhalgarh/index.html (Info about Hotels)

Travel Diaries II – Udaipur, Rajasthan (India)

COSTS: This really depends upon you as Rajasthan Tourism is expensive. The best thing however is to really plan a 10 - 15 day trip which will make Rajasthan a memorable experience. My travel here talks only about Udaipur, the city of Lakes. This is ideal for a 3 N/ 4 D trip and you can actually see the whole of the city. An ideal trip would cost you somewhere between INR 30 - 35,000 for two pax. (Airfare is expensive in this sector, so the best way is to take a bus or train from Delhi which is the nearest Major City). Accomodation options are available throughout the town and right from the old city you can find lots of hotels which will suit all pockets.
NEAREST AIRPORT: Maharana Pratap Airport at Dabok: 45 Kms from Udaipur City

You can reach Udaipur from New Delhi via the Mewar Express which leaves Delhi from Nizamuddin Station. The Mewar express takes around 12 hours and the trains in India are much better if you travel in the AC tiers.
I spent a good one and half year in this amazing city and let me tell you that once you are out, the romance never ends. You never want to leave this city and the mystery, the bazaars and the lovely people will leave an impact for your entire life.
Udaipur is the city of lakes and the seat of The Royal House of Mewar. This dynasty is the only surviving dynasty which has the longest lineage, 24 generations can be traced in their family history. The current ruler of this beautiful city is Shreeji Maharana Arvind Singhji Mewar.
I got this amazing piece of information about the city that it is the only place in the world where the latitudes and longitudes crisscross “making it one of the most beautiful karmic sites” - "Phalit Saundarya Rashichakra".
There is much romanticism about this city and has been best described as a jewel in the heart of Rajasthan. My own experience is much more than this. For, one can never explain the chilly winter mornings in Udaipur which have an air of mystic. The whole city is guarded by 9 poles or gates and the old city is still amidst the fortress. You can see a lot of places in Udaipur, a few notable being:

· City Palace – which is like divided into 4 sections (Two sections are 5 star properties of the HRH group, The Fateh Prakash & The Shiv Niwas), one section or Shambhu Niwas is where the Royal Family still resides and one section is open for the public. There is an amazing light and sound show in the eveing and tickets can easily br brought in the palace. Donot miss the Ashwapuja and the celebration of the Maharana’s birthday!! It’s a treat to watch and also the wine and cheese never stops!!!
· Lake Palace – this is a 5 star property situated in the middle of Lake Pichola.
· Jag Mandir – this is today a grand wedding destination and you will need to obtain special pass. This place was where Emperor Humanyun was given shelter.
· Moti Magri – nice little chilled out place where you get to learn about Maharana Pratap.
· Sajjangarh or Monsoon palace – amazing place, the highest peak in Udaipur and you can see the entire city from top. Go early and come back early because the guards are a real pain.
· Jagdish Temple – the temple is very famous and just round the corner of The city palace.
· Fateh Sagar Lake – this is where the entire city is out in the evenings, geat place to hang out and savour the Indian street side delectables.
· Saheliyon ki bari – This friend of mine converts this literally into the lesbian’s paradise in English!!! Good gardens and nice little place. You have a lot of uncles and aunties coming here for walks and all that.
· Bagore ki haveli – its some historic place and there is a museum and all that but I love the food there.
· Shilpgram – this is like one must see place. The entire village is awesum and it will take you atleast half a day. Very noteworthy is the “Shilpgram Mela” which is held in the winters.
· Old City – one of the liveliest and most amazing bazaars dorn Udaipur. You can find almost anything here and since this city is towards the hilly terrain you will be pushed back into the ages of the early 19 century.
· Never buy from the old city as it is extremely expensive and the same stuff you will find in Hathipole, (which is like the local market place) atleast 4 times lesser!
Great places to eat – Savage Garden/ Lotus Café/ Rajdarshan and almost every nook and corner has balcony turned restaurants. Hukum/ Apni Dhaani/ Ambrai are good places. The 5 star properties also boast of some amazing in house restaurants.

The city will suit to all pockets so it is more of when you are planning to visit. Usually season time starts from October so you will find places towards the steeper side. The city lies on NH 8 and is easily accessible both from Delhi and Mumbai, roughly around 650 kms. The only airport is in Dabok and that like an hour away from the main city.
Do not miss the Garden Restaurant in Laxmi Niwas.

TRAVEL DIARIES: MUMBAI INDIA

MUMBAI: A Day Long Journey capturing the Beauty of Mumbai
It is just a One Day Trip around the city

We don't often realise, but the fact still remains that Mumbai is an awesum place to visit. All the city life and the worries is fine, if you work in Mumbai you will need to face it, but a good idea would be to see Mumbai on a sunday. This place has so much to offer that you can simply go berserk and believe you me, when i actually saw the green part of Mumbai....its totally different than what i had imagined.
The history is amazing and the realization that you are now staying in a place which in older times used to be fisherman's village is enthralling. Did you know how Mumbai got its name?

The term Mumbai comes from the temple of Mumba Devi which was what the koli fishermen (original inhabitats of this city) used to pray to when they would go out to the city. "Aai" in Maharashtrian means mother and therefore Mumba - aai.
When the Portuguese came to India, they found the city as an extremely great place for their trade. It had a good bay. The term "Bom" in portuguese refers to "good" and therefore "Bom - Bay" or "Good - Bay".
When the portuguese gifted these seven islands to the British as a wedding dowry in the marriage of Catherine Braganza, the British converted and linked the seven islands together which today stands as Mumbai.

Over the years this city has added a lot of dynamism to its appeal and therefore today the city is one of India's most culturally plural societies.
This is also the only place where in you have the world's oldest buddhist caves wherein people before settling down into villages, used to live in caves. today the ruins of Kanheri Caves, which is a good 42 kms away from the city and near Borivali, is a living testimony to the ancient grandeur of this city.
The Kanheri caves are amazing and you would need a good 3-4 hours to see and comprehend maybe just 10% of the area.
Just next to it is the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, which is also known as the Borivali National Park....this is simply breathetaking. Where in Mumbai can you expect acre after acre of pristine greenery??

The Park is home to lions, tigers, wild boars and almost 3,500 species of butterflies. There is a lion safari which you can take and the tickets are just 30 bucks for a half hour trip. The bus is old and rickety but nothing spices up your adrenaline when they open the gates of the santuary enclosure and you enter the lion's den. All the lions and the tigers have been left in the wild, all of a sudden a turn comes and you would see a pride of lions gazing in the sun. I cannot explain the feeling as well as dominance which this creature has when you are in front.
A great itinerary for a day long trip in Mumbai would be as follows:
C S T /Gateway of India /View of Hanging Gardens /View of Tower of Silence /View of Nehru Planetarium /Mani Bhavan /Haji Ali /Gandhi Bhavan /Borivali National Park / Kanheri Caves / Aarey Milk Colony.

These places will give you a great sense of pleasure and change Mumbai's perspective. Make sure you stop over for lunch in Rajdhani which serves great thalis, its all over in Inorbit Mall, Malad & Nirma Lifestyle Mall.
A great idea ofcourse would be to calm down your nerves after the hectic driving around in Juhu Beach for some mouth watering bhel puri and kala khata's!!!

Whereas the first half of the tour can be covered in South Mumbai during the early part of the day, your endeavour should be to hit Rajdhani for lunch by atleast 1 pm and then head straight for Borivali National Park. The park as well as Kanheri Caves shut down by 5:30 pm so make sure you are inside before that time.
So gear up your boots and fill in the petrol...mumbai has a lot more to offer than just waiting in the never ending traffic jams!!!!

Bon Voyage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TRAVEL DIARIES - NASHIK (SULA WINE COUNTRY)

Weekend Get away for Wine Enthusiasts
COSTS: Nashik is well accesible by Road from Mumbai. Travel costs and you can stay or book yourself in any of the local hotels in Nashik Town

The thing about wine is that it is not well known in the country. You would least expect to drink wine even in the afternoon...but the secret is that you can actually do that. Take a trip to Sula Vineyards in Nasik and you will never remain the same again!!

Nashik is about 180 kms from Mumbai and you would need to take the Mumbai - Agra (NH 3). The place is reachable by train, car and bus services.

The Sula Vineyard is pretty far away from the main city so make sure you follow the right path.

The actual wine crushing season is from January to April and if you really wish to see the vineyards in full bloom, make sure you visit during the mentioned period.

The very first thought which you get once you approach the vineyards is setting up a bungalow amidst the greenery and musing at the profits which the fruits will reap! I'm sure Rajeev Samant will be a very happy man, but hat's off for coming up with such an idea.

Wine is not always a lady's drink. This is one of the major alcoholic beverages consumed all over Europe and the classical and aristocratic british and french societies marvelled on its wonders. It is an appetizer a smooth start to an amazing gourmet and wines let me tell you, come in different varieties.

The first thing which you must definitely undertake is the wine tour and tasting session. For a mere 150 bucks they make you taste 6 wines including Dindori, which is Sula's classic Wine.

The most amazing thing about the tasting is that they will make you understand each and every wine and follow the 5 S procedure to relish the taste. The 5 S stands for "See/Swirl/Smell/Sip/Swallow", that's how each and every wine must be tasted.

Their wines are available in Sparkling/White/Red/Rose and each and every one is worth tasting. Complement the wines with some amazing platters that are available.

The best part is the wine tasting lounge, once you are seated in the lounge you will never feel like coming back. My personal favourites would be the "Dindori Reserve Shiraz" and the "Late Harvest Chenin Blanc".

The "Dindori Reserve Shiraz" is a red wine and ideally complements grilled meats, spicy sea food, mexican and pizzas. This wine is ideally chilled at 15 - 18 C and the Wine makers recommend that you allow the wine to breathe before being served. It has a smooth berry flavoured taste to it.

The "Late Harvest Chenin Blanc" is an amazing wine. It is an amazing aperitif as well as a great dessert wine. The Chenin Blanc is paired with fruit platters, cheese and cakes. A great wine with aromas of lemon, pear, honey and tropical fruit, the Chenin Blanc is served well chilled at 6 - 8 C. (Try the assorted cheese & crackers platter or even the cheese, cherry combination).

You can collect some amazing Sula memorabilia and the wine racks and the caps & ashtrays are amazing. I really liked the lampshades that they had made out of empty wine bottles and the base turned into an ashtray!!! So much for the creative bent of mind at its peak.

Beyond is their amazing bungalow which is available on hire besides the lake. Rates vary for weekdays and weekends and a great idea would be to book early.

The email id is: visitsula@sulawines.com

So the next time you are around Maharashtra, make sure you pay a visit to the Sula Vineyards.

Macleod Ganj & Dharamshala: The Seat of The Dalai Lama
Nesteled in Himachal Pradesh (India)
COSTS: 4 n/ 5 D trip for two will cost you round about INR 25-30,000/ (airfare included from and to Delhi from any major Indian City). The best way is to take the night HRTC Bus from ISBT in Delhi and land in Dharamshala.
ACCOMODATION: Widely available but season time is steep.

The Journey covers more than seventeen hundred and fifty kilometers of travel and covers your route and expense list for a good 4 nights/ 5 days trip to Dharamshala and Mac Leod Ganj. This fantastic rendezvous with peace and travel covers states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Delhi, Haryana, Punjab and Himachal Pradesh.

It dawned on me all of a sudden and of course with the combined dilemma of all business executives that I had not travelled without any reasons and commitments for a long time. It seemed almost impossible to be able to plan a vacation of your own. Try going into Google and typing a harmless line like: ‘Holiday destinations in India’. You my friend, will be in for a surprise!!!

All you get to see is package tours; like the world forgot what it was like to travel by them! I love the tour operators, don’t get me wrong, but sometimes you just have to give people some room. The best part in every travel itinerary is a thought which says:
‘Day at Leisure!!’ This is a simple sentence which means “please do whatever you want to – we have run out of ideas!!!”

My journey began in Udaipur, the cultural capital of Rajasthan also known as the city of lakes. The total distance I had to cover to reach Dharamshala was 1729 kms via road, air and then trekking. It just dawned on me that I was still stuck in office till 7 pm in the evening on the day of my departure and I had not really packed. My flight to Delhi was in the early morning from Ahmedabad (this sector is much cheaper comparatively and you might want to book an early morning or midnight flight). I took a taxi from Udaipur and moved quite late at around 12 midnight. The roads are absolutely alive at night and throughout the entire country there are roadside eateries which will dish the most aromatic edibles in a matter of minutes. The taxi cost me about 1800 INR including toll fees and I reached Ahmedabad at 3 am in the morning. The airport was exceptionally quiet apart from a huge group of Patels, evidently sending one of their sons abroad; the whole village had come to see them off!!

Ahmedabad to Delhi Sector is much more frequent and cheaper due to huge volumes of business and merchant travelers. It was not therefore surprising that I got my ticket for around 2500 INR at 7:10 in the morning. Now, the whole idea for me to take the flight was to cut on the travelling time and spend some time in Delhi catching up with some old friends, which is exactly what I did, the minute I landed. My friend was there to pick me up and we zoomed to his place for breakfast and a morning siesta considering I had not slept the whole night!!

I spent a lazy afternoon at one of my favorite hang out spots in Delhi – Café Blues in Connaught Place. This place has so many memories attached that every time I walk in, it feels home. They have an amazing décor and one of the most lavish menu spreads you can find for miles in Delhi. Try the chicken satay, the salads and the yummiest chicken biryani!! This place is ideal for a lazy brunch with some foot tapping retro classics at the background. The uniform is very attractive and you would definitely bump into an old timer who would go gaga about the place.
By the time it was 5:30 in the afternoon, we walked out of Café Blues feeling absolutely stuffed and content. I had to go from Vasant Kunj to ISBT so I decided against all odds and took a cab to ISBT by 6 pm.
ISBT in Delhi is a world in itself. If you wish to witness chaos and unity in diversity, I bet this would be the starting point. I mean there are buses from every conceivable city to this place. I was informed that my Bus was at 8 pm and the terminal was 27. Considering the huge back pack I was carrying I felt the need to move towards the terminal right away and unload. HRTC runs very comfortable buses from ISBT to Manali, Dharamshala, Shimla etc. The ticket cost me 840 INR and very soon I was seated in a comfortable luxury Air conditioned Volvo. You can never miss the buses, they are green……I mean absolutely green!!
I cannot describe the feeling I first had when I woke up in the morning. The bus was climbing its way up in the hills and it was drizzling. The temperature was around 14 degrees Celsius and I took out my jacket as the air was chilly. I reached ISBT Dharamshala at 7 am in the morning. The first glimpse of the clouded hills beyond and the colorful Tibetan flags set the mood for a vacation well chosen. We were four of us and we quickly hired a taxi to take us to Mac Leod Ganj. The trip is a short 9 kms away from Dharamshala and we met an amazing taxi guy who made the 9 kms an absolute delight. His name was Prem and perhaps the best guide as well I have met in a long time.
He dropped us off at the main Mac Leod Ganj square from where we set out on hotel hunting. July is off season as it’s rainy and you can get wonderful rooms for less than half the rate. My brother – in – law and my sister have perhaps entered the Guinness book of world records for maximum travel in the last one year. After they got married, they have undertaken 24 trips all across the country and south east asia in the last one year. I got a very good deal from my brother-in-law’s agent who booked me into this hotel known as Him Queen. We got a suite room for 1500 INR complete with an attached balcony and bath tub!!!
The room was beautiful and the view breathe taking as we slowly settled into after a hot shower and some pancakes and eggs. I decided against sleeping and we set off towards the main square with some sturdy shoes on.
I had heard a lot about Mc llo which is right in the main market square so we decided to crash in for lunch. The place is really well done and is absolutely lively even in the afternoon. Just as we entered the first heavy showers hit Mac Leod Ganj. Fried momos, steamed momos, Tibetan noodles and some amazing pizzas….yes that is exactly what we gorged on! Ratings: SUPERB. The price is just about right (although) towards the higher side and from the restaurant you get the full view of the main market square and the hills beyond. They have a lovely collection of beverages and it is quite surprising to find almost all Sula varieties in this part of town. A typical meal for two with two beverages included will cost you around 600 – 800 INR.

Next on our agenda was skirting the nearby environs and following up on the next 4 days on what to do. I picked up a guide on Dharamshala and Mac Leod Ganj for 60 INR and got busy studying the whole place. It’s not very far, the main places of attraction and if you can plan well, you will be able to cover all these places in 1-2 days. The trekking trips to Dhauladhar, Truind and such places will be more intense and you can plan atleast 5 – 7 days for these treks. There are numerous adventure agencies and they can do a fine job for you, be advised, pack light and pack right!! It’s very important and I realized it a bit too late during our trek to Bhagsunag Waterfalls and beyond.
The beauty of this place is definitely its people. Everyone is so helpful and courteous; it seems amazing that they have suffered so much in the past. We were idling in the streets and the bazaars selling Tibetan goods, clothes, artifacts well all so cheerful because these are good people by heart. I found a hair dresser and got in for a hair cut and a lovely head massage. I have to admit, this guy was good!! All my strain and sore muscles at the back was absolutely gone!! He runs a small little place known as Abdesh Hair Dressers and it is on the old temple road.

That evening we spent doing what we do best, watching movies!! It was after a long time that we were all relaxed and caught up with two new movies which had just been released and the whole world was going gaga about.
DAY II
Next morning after a late breakfast, I called up Prem….our taxiwalla and he said he would take us around Dharamshala and the immediate vicinity. I had looked up the map and wanted to visit, naddi village, Dal Lake and the Dalai Lama’s exiled government complex. He agreed and said he would meet us at the hotel in an hour’s time. If you plan to visit this place make sure you take up accommodation near market places, this is a small sleepy town and if you take up hotels in the far reaches, make sure you arrange for your own transport.

As we got out of the hotel it was pouring cats and dogs and for the first time after many years I had seen hail. Stones were lashing at us in all shapes and sizes; I have to tell you that this had turned the whole scenic view into grandeur. After a brief half an hour wait in the hotel lobby we set out in Prem’s taxi.
First we reached the Macleod Ganj Main square and went down on the Dharamshala Road. There is a very old Nowrojee Store, which you cannot miss, take the road which goes adjacent to it if you have to go to Dharamshala. The Revered St. John’s Church was first on our itinerary and it is hardly 1 km from Macleodganj. This place is on the way to Dharamshala and is one of the oldest churches in North India. The Church is famous for its glass paintings as well as a small cremation ground, which dates back to 1850.

Just a quick walk from the Church will lead you to the war cemetery. Now, this place is really something which will give you Goosebumps. This place has cemeteries that date back to the 1800s!! It’s spread over a huge expanse of green winding its way up and down on the hills and you can just sit back and gaze…won der what life would have been at that very spot a hundred and fifty years back!
I can just about hear the sound of horses’ hooves in the distant dark. It’s raining heavily and the hills are roaring with winds tearing you apart. The sound of boots marching up the hill as more than a hundred men in uniform, dressed in the Queen’s red army, march their way. This caravan is followed by a man in black dressed heavily in an accentuated collar coat and rain boots. He holds a small baby in his hands and walks up to the cemetery. This is Major John Wilkes, The Officer Commanding of the Gorkha Rifles posted at Simla, His two month old baby has just died in his arms because of pneumonia. FLASHBACK TO 2009.
I RISE AND OFFER A PRAYER in my mind, yet it all seems like yesterday. This is reality and it has just stuck me that we still have to reach the earth to reach for the heavens above…dust to dust.

We then drove straight to The Dal Lake in upper Macleodganj, towards Naddi. This place offers a magnificent view of the imposing Dhauladhar mountain range. The fog had still not cleared so we decided to stick around this place for some time in the hope of being able to see the lofty peaks. Tibet lies beyond these mountains and one has to undertake an arduous ordeal to reach the land of the first sun. As I lit up my cigarette and looked beyond a sudden gush of adrenaline forced me to undertake the journey….see what lies in the land ahead. Luckily by then the fog had cleared and the view was clearer……..it was the most picturesque site I had seen in a long time. The snow capped peaks and the mountains are a site for sore eyes.
The entire Dhauladhar range can be viewed from here at a distance and the calm of this place is absolutely fantastic. If you look up the map of Macleodganj, this area is to the absolutely north west on top and true to its beckoning this had me mesmerized.

Next on our agenda was the visit to His Holiness The Dalai Lama’s Monastery and Tibetan Government in Exile Offices, Dharamshala. The winding roads down led us to Dharamshala and soon we were approaching the complex. Far away in the distance was a distint banner with the National Flag of Tibet……it said: TIBET..ONE NATION..ONE PEOPLE…FREE TIBET!!

The call was heart touching and it had a deep sense of pain. The main temple complex is distinct from the residence of His Holiness. The Tibet Museum, the Tibetan Dialectic Institute and the main temple beyond is magnificent. When the Chinese had invaded Tibet they destroyed a majority of the 6000 odd monasteries and destroyed their entire heritage and age old traditions. Whatever remained was stored and is still preserved in this temple complex.
The Museum is a stark reminder of the pain and the struggle that their people have gone through. Every picture and every exhibit speaks a thousand words behind those mesmerizing eyes. I collected loads of Literature on Tibet and their current international perspectives, which I’m still trying to read and understand what we can do to help.